This month I had originally planned to visit Mount Kailash in western Tibet. One of my (surprisingly few) travel dreams is to see the spectacular Saga Dawa festival that takes place at the foot of the mountain each year when Buddhist, Hindu and Jain pilgrims flock there to make a ritual circuit of the beautiful, isolated peak. This year, however, the Chinese government had other ideas for us all, issuing a travel ban that will prevent almost everyone from visiting the mountain until late August, long after the month-long festival has passed.

We went to Lhasa anyway, and spent two weeks under blue skies – eyes narrowed against the June sun – as we travelled west to Mount Everest and north to Lake Nam-tso. We joined a lively Saga Dawa ceremony in Gyantse and saw crowds of pilgrims in traditional dress all along our route. Kailash may have been off-limits, but the celebration of Buddha’s birth, enlightenment and death went ahead regardless (although I have my fingers crossed for Kailash in 2015).

These are some photos from the trip – enjoy!

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Yak train 2, Karola

Yak train 1, Karola

Prayers, Shalu Monastery

Prayer flags 3, Yamdrok-tso

Contrasty village, G318

Jokhang teatime, Lhasa

Karola Glacier

Cho Oyu trail

Gyan Gyen Carpet Factory, Shigatse

Tractor, Everest

Tsampa mill, near Gyantse

Saga Dawa Festival 5

Saga Dawa Festival 4

Woodwork, near Gyantse

Butter lamps, Lhasa

Prayer flags 1, Yamdrok-tso

Polaroid 1

Prayer flag 2, Yamdrok-tso

Pelkhor Chode Monastery, Tibet © Jo James

Pelkhor Chode Monastery, Gyantse

Himalayan sunset, near Tingri

Yak portrait, Nam-tso

Saga Dawa Festival 1

Cook, Lhasa

Nam-tso reflections

Dice and cowries, Lhasa

Cow pat hands, G318

Nam-tso storm

Potala chorten, Lhasa

Sunset highway, Tingri

Cow pat wall, G318

Potala by night

Butter lamps, Gyantse

Local transport

Saga Dawa Festival 6

Cho Oyu at dawn

Saga Dawa Festival 2

Sand mandala, Gyantse

Boy, Everest

Polaroid 2

Saga Dawa Festival 3

Nomad beauty