The adjective most commonly applied to Xinjiang* is “restive”. After a series of recent attacks attributed to the region’s Uyghur separatists, it was with some trepidation back in June that I agreed to arrange a trip to the area for friends.

However, happily for our small group, Xinjiang was at its beautiful autumnal best for us – early snow dumps notwithstanding – and the Uyghur people we met and stayed with were, without exception, incredibly warm and welcoming and kind.

I’m biased, suffering as I do from chronic Cental Asian wanderlust, but you really should go. Just make sure you have a good appetite for mutton and enough space in your bags for a Kashgari carpet or two…**

Soundtrack: 《姑娘我爱你》 (“Girl, I love you”) by Sonam Tashi

Her husband, Karakul © Jo James

Dozing camel, Kashgar

The edge of the Taklamakan, Khotan © Jo James

Wind-whipped Lake Karakul © Jo James

Mazar roof, Kashgar

Ayesha at home, near Ghulja © Jo James

Each pillar in this mosque was carved by a different artisan, who put his own stamp on the design – advertising for years to come © Jo James

A noble minibus, driven by champions © Jo James

Yurts at sundown, Tashkurgan © Jo James

Kashgar juice bar © Jo James

A man and his dopa, Khotan © Jo James

Korban sheep market, the cause of much gridlock, Khotan © Jo James

Movie set (10 points if you know which movie), Tashkurgan © Jo James

Blue skies and minarets, Kashgar © Jo James

How to herd your camels, Bayanbulak

Here’s lookin’ at you, Ghulja

Poplars everywhere, near Ghulja © Jo James

His wife, Karakul © Jo James

The girl with the eyes, Khotan © Jo James

Sheep on the horizon, Bayanbulak Grasslands © Jo James

Heartbreakers-in-training (the ice cream was for me), Khotan © Jo James

Open space at the ruins of Melikawat, near Khotan © Jo James

Desert sails, Khotan

Shimmering horizon, Bayanbulak Grasslands © Jo James

Stuck trucks, on a mountain pass in the Tianshan (Mountains of Heaven) © Jo James

Like a ram to the slaughter © Jo James

Posing pomegranates, Kashgar

Trudging, near Khotan © Jo James

Strong genes in Ghulja © Jo James

Failing light, Tashkurgan

Karakoram Highway 2.0 © Jo James

A grand canyon, near Kuqa

Traditional Uyghur nose-balancing act, Yarkand © Jo James

Suit out of context, Bayanbulak

Mosque door, Kashgar © Jo James

Fringes of the Karakoram © Jo James

Mazar roof, Kashgar © Jo James

Doors, Kashgar © Jo James

Unreal water, Karakoram Highway © Jo James

Walled orchard on the Karakoram Highway © Jo James

9am, dawn in Kashgar © Jo James

* For the uninitiated, Xinjiang is here:

**I’m still vaguely hoping that mine will turn out to be a magic one – anything to avoid domestic flights in China…