Pema Dorji’s Positive Story
I was cycling up Gaden Lam, slow and red-faced, when I met Pema Dorji. He pulled up alongside me on his mountain bike, wearing a gho and bike helmet – […]
Tag Archives: People
A day in Myeik
U Chit Ko Ko and I had had a busy morning. We had explored Myeik’s main market, U Chit Ko Ko walking ahead and pointing at things (“Burmese shampoo!”, “Big […]
Mr Book’s Ginger Tea
Mr Book suddenly let out a hoot and, leaning closer, pushed his glasses up the bridge of his nose with his forefinger. Glancing around to see what had caused the […]
Bodhisattva For Sale
“Come here”, the cook said, beckoning Chinese-style – her palm facing down and fingers moving together. I followed her behind the grimy sheet that hid the kitchen from the restaurant […]
A Call to Doctor Ho
I recently found myself in the awkward position of having to call someone to ask whether they were still alive or not. The man in question, Doctor Ho, and I […]
How to say ‘Hello’ in Uyghur
China ebbs away as you travel west through Xinjiang, until at some point you discover yourself on a dusty street in Kashgar, roast lamb scenting the air and the Muezzin’s […]
A State of Suspicion
I’ve never had my bags inspected as much as I have in Xinjiang. Each bus and train station has a luggage scanner and a body scanner, and you need generally […]
The Accidental Tomb Raider
I arrived in Cherchen in the middle of a dust storm. It had been gathering since I left Golmud the previous morning, gradually erasing the mountains and blotting out the […]
The Taxi Driver’s Tale
“You don’t need to worry, I’ll still be here,” said the driver, a sinewy but attractive Han Chinese lady. I left my bags – all of them – in the […]
Getting Going in Gansu
I was prepared to dislike Tianshui when I arrived here a few hours ago. This was due to a few reasons, none of them very good (the bus broke down, […]
Mrs Lu’s Story
Mrs Lu still wears a traditional topknot, which she winds up on top of her head in elaborate loops. “I never wear a hat, like some of the other women […]
Little Yak 